Steps

1. 1

   Printer types

   Filament (fdm) Lay layer by layer of molten plastic in the form of wire coil + affordable price + large volume + less toxic (PLA) - visible layers - post-treatment (poncing) Please note that some plastics remain toxic and require a closed printer => I recommend this guy for weapons, armor, accessories... Overall more versatile and accessible while remaining relatively accurate (0.2mm easy).

   
2. 2

   Printer types

   Resin Materials in liquid plastic form The tray will immerse itself in a container filled with resin that will be solidified with uv while it rises + better accuracy + layers not visible - toxicity - post-treatment with other machines - requires a separate room - more expensive - smaller volumes => I recommend this guy for very precise small pieces. Overall, more binding and less accessible.

   
3. 3

   Models and software

   There are software that has free versions to create its own models like Fusion360, Blender, ZBrush. There is also the possibility to download or buy models already made on sites like Cults3D, Thingiverse, Thangs. The files must pass into a software called slicer in order to be transformed into a format understandable by the printer. Usually this software is provided with the printer and available free on the internet.